An air conditioner in the home is a big help during the hot summer season. There are many types available today but the window unit is still the most preferred by many homeowners. Installing it can be done by just one person but having an assistant would make the work faster especially when lifting the heavy unit.

Before purchasing an air conditioner, it’s very important to figure out the space you need to cool and the size of the unit ideal for such area. Determine next the place where you want to install it and take measurements of the window opening required. This is crucial because not all window type units come in the same size.

Depending on your preference, you can install the unit on an existing window and then just cover the other parts. This can be done if you no longer want to make another opening in your wall. A double-hung window near a wall outlet is an ideal location. A storm window is another optional area where you can fit an air conditioner.

When you already have your air conditioner ready, the first part you will have to install into the window opening are its mounting brackets. Always make it a point to follow the manufacturer’s instructions.

For modern units, install the bracket or support first on the window sill. The fittings need to be mounted securely to prevent the air conditioner from falling. Screw them and adjust the level properly. If your window sill is made of soft wood, you may need to replace it or install the unit on another window.

From there, you can now place the unit on the bracket. If you have a bulky and heavy unit, ask someone to help you lift it to the sill and mounting bracket if necessary. A pocket below should lock in place over the support.

Now using a bubble level, check that the unit is level. This will ensure that the appliance will work well and it’s tightly sealed in the window area. You may need to shim if necessary to maintain its proper level.

Once you see that the unit is properly positioned and secure, lower the window on top of the air conditioner.

Then take out the extensions situated on both sides of the unit and make sure to attach them to the window frame. The extensions should then be fastened to the sash. Angled brackets should also be screwed to the window’s upper sash to prevent the upper part of the window from opening.

Seal the gap between the window and air conditioner as well as the sides where the sashes overlap using a strip of foam. Some manufacturers provide the foam together with the unit.

Next step is to attach the drainage hose to the exterior part of the unit. Airtight seal the unit outside by applying caulk around it. This will help prevent warm air from escaping outside.

It shouldn’t be difficult to install a window air conditioner these days as the more modern units have become lightweight. Even women can lift it comfortably by themselves.

Walls in any interior space are best covered using drywall sometimes referred to as sheetrock. The term sheetrock is actually taken from a brand of drywall but is the same panel used in covering walls and ceilings.

Installing sheetrock should be done by at two people as it involves lifting heavy material. If preferred, this can be a do it yourself task.

A kitchen can look more attractive when it has great countertops. For this part, various materials can be used such as a laminate, solid surface and stone tops.

Installing laminate countertops can be carried out on a do it yourself project. The other types of material should be left to professionals as they require special tools and to ensure that their warranty is preserved as well.

Before you start your work, remove fixtures and other accessories attached to the countertop.

Taking measurements is the first standard procedure. Measure the space you want your counter top to cover and add another one inch for the overhang. For long countertops, you will have to cut the laminate to make it fit.

If your countertop is going to run through the sink, trace the hole using kraft paper and then cut out the hole shapes. A jigsaw is ideal for cutting the sink hole but you will need to score the line first with a sharp utility knife and then drill a pilot hole for the jigsaw blade to fit in.

Once you have the measurements, mark the size on your laminate and use masking tape to determine the lines you will be cutting. The purpose of the masking tape is to prevent chipping of the laminate.

The next step is to cut the laminate according to the appropriate measurements you’ve taken. A saber saw will do the job well.

Another option is to order your countertop from a local home improvement store or cabinet shop with your exact specifications. Most shops will already install fasteners that are hidden and they can even preassemble difficult sections including the corner.

At this point, you have to check that the original base cabinets are solid, level and secure. Keep in mind that when a cabinet is out of level, your countertop has the tendency to crack of warp notably at the joints.

On top of the base cabinet’s frame, apply carpenter’s glue before placing your countertop. Align it well and then attach the drywall screws to the countertop’s underside to keep it secure in its place.

If you’re installing very close to the wall, do the same initial steps and when placing the laminate countertop, make sure that you align it close to the wall.

To keep the countertop steady in its position, clamp it and then use a scriber compass to mark the wall’s outline on the laminate. Remove any excess using a belt sander. After that, you should test fit the countertop first to make sure that it fits very well to the wall.

In the area where the countertop meets the wall, don’t forget to apply caulking.

Finally when installing an L-shape countertop, first apply carpenter’s glue on the edges where the two pieces will join together. Once joined, install the countertop on the base cabinet and tighten the fasteners to hold the two parts together. Check the alignment of the corners and make sure that seam is smooth such that it cannot easily be seen. Then let the glue dry once you’re sure the two pieces are well aligned.

Installing a drywall can be a dot-it-yourself project but ideally, it’s a man’s job. This is because strength is required especially when placing the wall and nailing them in place. In fact, some homeowners may just do the initial part and then hire an experienced person to finish the work.

Getting the proper measurements for your drywall is vital. Planning is necessary to achieve a wall with only a few joints.

Standard drywall sheets come in 4 x 8 feet but the thickness may vary from 1/2 inch for walls and 5/8 for ceilings. The size of nails or screws you should use will depend on the thickness of your drywall. Be sure to check your area’s building code for the required measurements.

When installing drywall on the walls or ceiling, it would make your work easier and faster if you have another person helping you. Usually, the drywall is installed by positioning the long side of it from floor to ceiling. However, it is also possible to install it horizontally if this will create lesser joints depending on what suits you.

Experts suggest that drywall should be installed to the ceiling first before the walls. The drywall should be positioned at right angles to the joints. Use a T-brace if you’re working on your own to keep the other steady while you’re installing it. To make a T-brace, nail a 1 x 4 wood with a length of two feet to a 2 x 4 wood of sufficient length that can reach the height of the ceiling from floor.

Nail the drywall using the right size of nails and make sure to space your nails every 7 inches. For each joist, three nails is ideal – one in the center and two at the edge. Drive the nails with enough pressure so that they tighten the board to the framing.

For the walls, the top boards should be installed first if you want to do it horizontally. You need to push them firmly against the ceiling to keep them secure.

When nailing, start by driving the first nail 7 inches below the ceiling. Space the nails at least 7 inches apart.

If the adhesive method is used, apply the nails at the board’s edges. Should you observe the center part bowing out, drive a temporary nail until the adhesive has set. Don’t forget to remove the nail once it’s been set.

For a vertical installation of the drywall ideal for wall heights more than 8 feet and 2 inches, the long edges of the wall board should be placed parallel to the framing members. Follow the same steps when nailing the board.

The outside corner area should be applied with metal corner strips. Nail them every 5 inches. Nail through the strip’s edge first followed by the drywall and then the wood framing.

Cover all joints, corners and nail heads with a joint compound. Apply at least two to three coats of compound if possible. The amount of coating will also depend on the type of drywall tape you are using – whether the regular one or the type with adhesive on the back.

Fences keep the privacy in your home. They also keep away stray animals from entering your backyard and causing damage to your garden.

Although putting up a fence may look quite a major task, it can actually be accomplished as a do it yourself project. Also, there are premade fences as well as DIY kits already available today on the market.

Mark the area where you will put up the fence. Use a flag or anything that will mark the location.

The very first part of the fence that needs to be installed are the posts. These should be set about six to eight feet apart depending on the purpose of your fence. Keep in mind that about a third of the post should be buried in the ground especially for corner posts.

Set up first the corner or end post and then create a line using a string from each corner post to keep the others aligned. Make sure to keep the string very taunt to create a straight line. Then to lay out of the posts’ position, you can use a tape measure as often suggested by manufacturers.

At every marker you made, dig a hole according to the depth that you prefer. The diameter of the holes should be about four to six inches wider than your post. Use a rock bar and posthole digger for this purpose. Ideally, the depth should range from 24 to 36 inches. You can then put two to three shovels of gravel in the bottom before placing the post.

Insert the post in the hole and make sure to add concrete around it to keep it steady in its proper upright position and secure. The concrete should be allowed to cure overnight. You can brace every post using stakes while the concrete is still in its curing period.

Even after the concrete has cured, you may want to provide additional bracing in two directions to the corner posts to make it sturdier. Remember that corner posts carry the fence’s weight in two directions so they have to be really strong.

It’s also important to note that the head of a fence post should be capped, slanted or rounded. This is to prevent water from accumulating on top of it which could eventually damage your wood fence.

Once the posts are in place, it’s time to install the rails. The spacing between railings will depend on the purpose of your fence.

The railings should be attached to the top and bottom part of the fence posts. You can nail them either to one side of the post of the center of the post. There are actually different types of joints that you can apply again depending on what you like – mortised, lap, butt, slotted and grooved. Check for proper alignment of the rails to the posts.

Your needs are the most important consideration when choosing the type of fence to install in your home. A wood fence not only acts as a barrier but also enhances the beauty of your backyard. You can select from the wide range of designs available or you can always create your own style.

Tankless water heaters are becoming more popular in the U.S. following the trend in Europe and Asia. This type of heater does not use any storage tank but it has a water pressure sensor instead that functions when someone turns on the hot water tap. Homeowners who prefer to use this can enjoy from 20 to 30 percent savings on their energy consumption.

A tankless water heater is best positioned in an area where hot water is in great demand. One ideal place in the home is next to a washing machine.

Before buying your unit, do figure out first the purpose of getting a heater. Decide if you’ll use it to just supplement your main heater for a single bathroom or to replace your current storage tank.

Installing a water heater should be done by a professional if possible. This is because various work such as upgrades and modifications pertaining to the electrical and gas systems are involved. Changes are necessary to keep up with the demands of the gas heater. Additionally, a dedicated circuit as well a heavy gauge wiring are usually required.

The first step in the installation process is to turn off the supply line for water going into the house. If you’re replacing an old water heater, disconnect the supply line first and the heat source next. For a gas system, the supply valve should be closed but if you have an electric water heater, just unplug the unit from the wall outlet. Remove the old heater then and dispose of it properly.

Prepare your new tankless heater and determine the proper clearances around it. Check your local building codes beforehand for a smooth flow of installation.

Follow the instructions from the manufacturer that came along with the unit your purchased. Make sure that you have the proper support for its base before connecting the wirings.

An electric water heater should be plugged into a standard power outlet that accommodates voltage ranging from 100 to 240. Sufficient amps as well as three circuits in your circuit box are usually required.

If you bought a gas tankless water heater, you will have to install a ventilation duct or exhaust system unlike when having a regular unit with a tank. A larger flue or a stainless steel flue is ideal.

Next, connect your water supply line followed by the heat source. For an electric water heater, simply plug the unit to the wall outlet. But if you’re using a gas unit, install a gas supply line from the stub situated at the wall to the water heater. Open the valve going to the direction of the supply line.

Check for leaks by spraying soapy water on the union. The presence of bubbles signifies poor connection and leakage so you need to double check and repair the problem by first turning off the gas.

Have your plumbing and electrical systems checked by a licensed professional before installing your tankless water heater. Some manufacturers also require that a certified installer do the work in order for the unit’s warranty to be valid.

Many homeowners now recognize the usefulness of a ceiling fan whether in summertime or winter. A ceiling fan helps improve energy efficiency in the home by providing cool air during the hot summer months and warm air during cold weather. This then translates to lower electricity bills and more savings to families.

Installing a ceiling fan should start with locating the proper area where to hang it. Normally, this fixture is installed in the center of the living room or dining room where the main light is situated.

Check that the electrical circuit above the area has sufficient capacity to handle the fan. If no light fixture is previously there, then you will have to create a hole and provide electrical power by tapping into an existing circuit.

Next, determine the height and clearance. It is strongly recommended that a ceiling fan should hang at least 7 feet from the floor. A minimum 12-inch clearance between the ceiling and the blade should also be observed. Always check your local building codes if necessary.

Before installing the ceiling fan, do turn off the power to the light’s circuit breaker or fuse. If you need to create a hole, first find the center of the room by snapping diagonal chalk lines from opposite corners.

Cut a hole just enough to let the junction box get inside. Then drill holes its side and attach it to the joist using screws.

If your fan comes with a decorative ceiling cover or medallion, you need to install it next. Apply an adhesive to the back of the medallion, pass the wires through it, position it in center and then press. Keep it secure by driving nails into the joist and then apply caulk on the nailheads. Attach the plate next to the junction box.

Assemble the parts of the fan and do this on the floor. You will have to feed the wires coming from the motor through the canopy’s center and then pass the wires through the down-rod pipe.

From there, thread the down-rod pipe into the top part of the motor and tighten the screw on the pipe’s side. Remember not to remove the coating of the pipe’s thread.

Now it’s time to connect the wires using the wire connectors. The two green wires should join the copper wire coming from the cable. The two white wires should go together as should the two black wires.
Position the ceiling fan against the medallion and keep it in place using two screws.

After that, you can already attach the blades and lights. Each blade should go to the blade iron and fasten it with screws but not too tightly to damage the laminate or the blade itself. Check that the blades are well balanced because if not, this can cause the fan to wobble when it runs. You may need to interchange the blades if they’re not balanced.

The last step is to plug the housing of the light fixture into the wire coming from the fan motor’s underside. Install the lightbulbs and you’re done.

Gutters are important components of a roof. With these fixtures in place, a home can keep rain water away from its premises and therefore, help maintain a sound structure.

A gutter system needs to be installed properly to avoid cosmetic and costly repairs in the future. Hanging gutters can be done by the males by following the manufacturer’s instructions to the letter. It can even take just an hour or a few hours to install depending on the amount of gutter involved in the project.

Rain gutters are made from various materials but aluminum is the most widely used in homes today. Compared to the other materials, aluminum is cheaper and easy to work with. The standard length available is 10 feet.

Assuming that you’re doing a replacement work, first remove the existing gutter from the edges of your roof. Then once you’ve taken them off, check all the fascia boards and repair the damaged parts if necessary.

Before purchasing your new gutter system, do determine first the type that will suit the weather condition in your location. If your area experiences much local rain, then a deep gutter is ideal. If your house is situated near trees that overhang the roofline, debris guards should be used.

First, you’ll need to snap a chalk line on the area where the gutters will run. The gutter should slope about 1/4 inch for every 10 feet going to the end part where the downspout will be installed. The slope is important to provide proper drainage and prevent freestanding water. If your gutter runs more than 35 feet, both sides should have downspouts. So mark your starting point and then the low point to guide you.

Determine the proper location of your downspout. If a drain is currently in place, you can just install the outlet in the same line as the drain. However if you’re installing a new downspout, make sure to direct it towards the gully.

Mark the location of your downspout on the gutter and to create a hole, first drill starter holes on the marking. From there, you can cut the opening using a jigsaw.

To connect your downspout pipe to the gutter, apply a sealant to the pipe’s lip and place it into its proper position. Apply some pressure while putting the connecter into the gutter opening. Then secure the connector using metal screws.

Make sure you install the end cap at the edges. Secure it into place by crimping the edges with the use of pliers.

Your next step should be to attach the gutter hangers to the eaves. Using deck screws about 1 1/4 inches in size, measure one inch from the end of the roof and attach the hangers. Starting from the end, measure six inches and attach the hanger and then hang the others at least every 18 to 24 inches for the entire length of the gutter.

As you hang the gutter, secure it with the hangers using the screws.

The final step is to connect the pipes for the downspout and insert them into their proper place.

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